I timed myself futzing around with the v6 in the MK3 and even with having to grab extra tools, it took me pretty much exactly 2 minutes to swap the nozzle, plus the heat-up time. So you’ll first need to heat up the hotend at least to a point where you can cold pull the filament, and then, depending on how hot you got it, you might need to let it cool off again because even though the mini silicone socks do provide some insulation for when you grab the nozzle while it’s hot, there are large surfaces that have no insulation on them, so at that point it’s still quite easy to burn your fingertips. There’s no hot-tightening anymore, you don’t need any tools, you just unscrew it with your fingers, and screw in the new one, right? Well, I wouldn’t blame you if you thought it was really that quick and easy, because one thing that’s being conveniently ignored everywhere is the filament that’s loaded up – and as long as that’s welded to the inside of the nozzlebreak, you can’t unscrew it. So let’s get started with, of course, the headlining feature, quick-swapping nozzles. The Revo nozzlebreaks use the exact same thread pattern as the heatbreaks for Hemera, so you can mix-and-match parts between the ecosystems, the only difference is that the Revo heaters and Revo heatsinks have a little groove that lets a spring catch, and this keeps the heater pressed down when everything is assembled and holds it in place when you swap a nozzlebreak. Then you get the Revo Mini heatsink, which is a lighter and smaller version that instead uses an M12x1.5 thread for mounting for example to the effectors of delta printers, there’s also a Revo Voron heatsink that has a couple of female threads in the top and of course, there’s also Revo Hemera, which is E3D’s extruder that has the heatsink for the hotend built-in. You still do need a heatsink for the coldside of the hotend, and you get the choice of using Revo6, which, size-wise, is completely compatible with the old v6 form factor, and that’s what I used to upgrade one of my Prusa MK3s. The essence of Revo is the new nozzlebreak, which combines what used to be a separate nozzle and heartbreak into a single part, as well as the new heater core, which used to be a separate heater block, heater cartridge, and thermistor. It’s not called v7, and I think that makes a lot of sense, but that’s something I want to get to later. Let’s get started with the disclosure: E3D sent me all these parts free of charge to try out, I do not have to send them back when I’m done, no money changed hands and E3D does not get any influence in this review, but the links in the description where you can buy the Revos are affiliate links. After using the Revo for a couple of weeks and putting it through one of the most extensive testing sets I’ve ever done on a product, I’ve got some thoughts, graphs, and numbers I want to share with you. You get the new quick-swap nozzlebreaks, a new self-regulating heater, an optional smaller form factor, significantly better performance and a new patents package that makes sure nobody will ever be making nozzles or heaters without E3D’s approval. It’s time to take an in-depth look at E3D’s newest hotend ecosystem – the RapidChange Revo. Let’s get it tested and find out if it’s worth it! Delivery times for the Minican vary from six to eight weeks - as opposed to the two to three weeks of the Mk3 - so if you are on a time crunch, you may need to look elsewhere.E3D’s new RapidChange Revo system breaks with existing standards – and it comes with news highlights and drawbacks. The only real negative right now is the length of time you will have to wait for a new Mini from Prusa Research. The Prusa Mini offers the best balance of the three. While having a large print bed is great, you have to balance cost, bed size, and print quality when you're starting as a hobbyist. Even the Ender 3 - a much closer price range to the Mini - is only 40mm bigger each side, and the print quality on the Mini is much higher. The Prusa Mk3 has a larger bed, of course - 250mm x 210mm - but it certainly isn't double the size to make up for the cost. The bed on the Mini is 180mm x 180mm, which is not that bad. If you are buying a 3D printer with the word "Mini" in the title, you should expect a small bed, but others seem to disagree. I think the biggest downside is perhaps the print bed. There is very little work that needs doing to the Prusa Mini it's already terrific. You would be hard-pressed to see any difference between the quality of the Prusa Mini and its big brother. Source: Windows Central (Image credit: Source: Windows Central)
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